At Welverdiend waterhole were very muddy buffaloAfter a break at Muzandzeni picnic area, we took the S36 to S39 and followed the Timbavati river. There was a congregation of a hundred vultures on what looked like a dead elephantA lilac breasted roller posed for us, and I always try to get a picture of them flyingHeading back down to Nsemani Dam, we watched elephants play in the wateras much other game watched nearbyPlanning to head in for a snack and to recharge batteries, we were stopped by a car jam at a tree full of vulturesa carcass underneathand a male lion hiding in the shade behindJust down the road were two more buffalo carcasses, an adult female on one side, a baby on the otherTwo lionesses lay panting under a tree nearby, Asking other cars what had happened, we heard that a huge lion pride had killed 3 buffalo that morning. Being very close to Satara and right on the tar road, we knew this would be a busy sighting, so we parked in pole position at the baby buffalo (at 1:45 pm) and decided to wait there the rest of the afternoon. Two Germans agreed with our plan and took pole position at the adult buffalo just across the road. At 2:30 pm 6 lions came through but then crashed in the shadeAt 3:05 pm the two lionesses from the tree chased off a vulture and then crossed the road. One of them was super old, with barely any teeth leftAt 3:25 a family of ground hornbill walked through the areaAt 3:40 pm the really old lioness repositioned the baby buffalo and tried to eatAfter both lionesses had moved off a vulture snuck in for some meat at 4:15Starting at 5:15 there was constant action, no more play by play notes. Needless to say there was a steady stream of cars all afternoon, but everyone was nice and we actually maintained a view of both carcassesThe old lioness came back to our side and stood next to our car for several minutesA young adult male dragged the adult buffalo’s carcass further from the roadWhile a male cub and the old lioness worked on the baby buffaloFinally at 6:15 we checked out the male (still down the road)admired the moon & sunand saw yet another lioness. Altogether there were at least 15 lions in the area, probably more.KNP Video has 16 short clips, including these lions, but you’ll get ahead of the story if you watch it now!

We met Mandy and the two Germans for drinks, and heard of Mandy’s incredible cheetah sighting on the S100, lucky her! A spider crossed our pathOutside our bungalow we met a couple from Atlanta, the first other American self-drivers we ran across. We again set up our trail camera, right on the porch as we heard of the honey badgers in camp. Sure enough we caught one on camera, as well as a thick tailed bushbabyAt Satara many people get up early, there were 20 cars in line by 4:30. We went north a little ways just to let the pack break up. By the time we turned around and went to the S100 we had it to ourselves, and were rewarded with a porcupine crossing the road – still too early for pictures tho. We found plenty of waterbuckzebra, kudu, giraffe elephant, baboon, and a total of 7 ground hornbilla tawny eaglevervet monkeys foragingand lilac breasted rollerWe then went to yesterday’s lion site, only bones leftWe did find a pile of lions near the damOnce again we returned before 9 to shower and pack. We had several hours before it was time for the Sweni wilderness trail so we went back to the S90/S100 route, with kuduand waterbuckand elephantand bateleur eagles

Part 1 – Planning and Kgalgadi: Twee Rivieren
Part 2 – Kgalgadi: Urikaruus and Kalahari Tented Camp
Part 3 – Kgalgadi: Nossob, Grootkolk, Mata Mata
Part 4 – Kgalgadi: Twee Rivieren and Black Footed Cat group
Part 5 – Kruger: Berg En Dal and Skukuza
Part 6 – Kruger: Nwatimwambu Walking Trail and Lower Sabie
Part 7 – Kruger: Satara
Part 8 – Kruger: Sweni Wilderness Trail
Part 9 – Kruger: Olifants
Part 10 – Kruger: Tamboti and Biyamiti
Part 11 – Notten’s Bush Camp